In brief
- Franchising offers beauty and wellness brands a compelling route to rapid growth without the capital outlay of opening company-owned locations.
- However, entering a franchise arrangement, whether as a franchisor or franchisee, is a significant legal and commercial undertaking. Before entering into such an arrangement, both parties must understand the key legal, financial, and operational considerations that will define their relationship.
- This article sets out the key issues to consider when entering a franchise arrangement. More details can be found in our Franchising Guide which you can download from our website.
Introduction
The beauty and wellness industry is one of the UK's most dynamic and resilient sectors, having demonstrated remarkable growth even in challenging economic conditions. From boutique blow-dry bars and nail studios to holistic wellness centres and medically-adjacent aesthetics clinics, the sector is defined by strong consumer loyalty, repeat custom, and personal recommendation - attributes that make it particularly well-suited to the franchise model.
Franchising allows a brand owner (the franchisor) to grant a third party (the franchisee) the right to operate a business under its brand, using its systems and intellectual property, typically in exchange for an upfront fee and ongoing royalties. Done well, it benefits both parties: the franchisor scales without deploying significant capital, and the franchisee gains access to a proven concept.
But franchising is not without risk. The legal framework is detailed, the relationship is long-term, and getting the fundamentals wrong can be costly for both sides.
Key considerations when franchising
Choosing the right model
Before committing to a franchise structure, brand owners should consider whether franchising is the right vehicle for their growth ambitions. Licensing, distribution agreements, or joint ventures may be more appropriate depending on the degree of control required, the strength of the brand, and the complexity of the product or service offering.
In the beauty and wellness sector, the level of operational consistency required is often high. An inconsistent client experience risks significant reputational damage. Franchising can offer the necessary oversight through structured training and quality control, but only if the system is well-designed from the outset.
The franchise agreement
The franchise agreement is the cornerstone of the entire arrangement. It governs the relationship between franchisor and franchisee and should be carefully drafted and reviewed by specialist legal advisers on both sides.
Key provisions to consider include:
- Term and renewal: How long does the initial term run, and on what conditions may it be renewed? A typical term in the beauty sector might run between five and 10 years.
- Territory: Is the franchisee granted an exclusive territory? How is that territory defined, and what protections exist against encroachment, including online or mobile services?
- Fees: What is the initial franchise fee, and how are ongoing royalties calculated? In wellness and beauty, royalties are commonly calculated as a percentage of gross revenue.
- Obligations of each party: The agreement must clearly set out what the franchisor is obliged to provide (training, marketing support, supply chain access, etc.) and what the franchisee must deliver in return (operational standards, minimum performance requirements, reporting obligations).
- Intellectual property: Franchisees must be granted a licence to use the brand's trade marks, branding, and proprietary systems, and must be required to protect them.
- Restrictions: Non-compete and non-solicitation clauses are standard, but must be proportionate and carefully drafted to be enforceable under UK law.
- Termination and exit: The circumstances in which either party can terminate the agreement, and the consequences of doing so, including whether the franchisor has a right of first refusal to buy back the franchised business.
Protecting your intellectual property
Intellectual property is among the most valuable assets of any beauty or wellness brand. Before franchising, franchisors should ensure that all relevant IP is properly identified, owned, and protected.
This includes:
- Trade marks: Your brand name, logo, and any distinctive product names or slogans should be registered as trade marks in the UK and in any other territories where you intend to franchise. An unregistered mark may be more difficult and costly to enforce.
- Know-how and confidential information: Franchise manuals, treatment protocols, supplier lists, and operational systems can often be the true competitive advantage. The franchise agreement must impose robust obligations of confidentiality.
- Technology and software: Where the business relies on booking systems, client management software, or proprietary formulations, ownership of and access to that technology must be clearly addressed.
- Social media and digital assets: In a sector driven by visual identity and influencer culture, ownership of social media handles and digital content can be a flashpoint. The agreement should clearly specify who owns accounts operated in connection with the franchised business.
Regulatory considerations
The beauty and wellness sector is subject to a growing and rapidly evolving body of regulation, particularly in relation to aesthetic treatments.
Franchisors and franchisees alike should be alive to:
- Licensing and local authority requirements: Certain treatments, including tattooing, piercing, electrolysis, and acupuncture, require local authority licences in England. Requirements vary by local authority and must be satisfied before trading.
- Aesthetics and cosmetic procedures: The regulation of non-surgical cosmetic procedures is undergoing significant reform. The Health and Care Act 2022 introduced a licensing regime for certain procedures in England, including botulinum toxin injections and dermal fillers. Franchisors operating in this space must ensure their network is fully compliant.
- Product safety: Beauty products placed on the UK market must comply with the UK Cosmetics Regulation (retained from EU law). Responsibilities for compliance must be clearly allocated in the franchise agreement.
- Employment and self-employment: Many beauty and wellness businesses operate with a mix of employed and self-employed staff. Getting employment status right is essential, as misclassification can give rise to significant liability for tax and employment rights.
- Data protection: Client data is central to the beauty and wellness business model. Both franchisors and franchisees must comply with UK GDPR and the Data Protection Act 2018, and the franchise agreement should address data ownership, processing responsibilities, and breach notification.
Financial due diligence
Financial due diligence is essential for prospective franchisees before committing to any arrangement. This means scrutinising the franchisor's accounts, understanding the true cost of setting up and operating the business (including fit-out costs, equipment, training fees, and working capital), and stress-testing the franchisor's financial projections.
In the UK, franchisors are not legally required to provide a pre-contractual disclosure document (unlike in jurisdictions such as the United States or France). However, the British Franchise Association, the UK's main self-regulatory body for franchising, publishes a Code of Ethical Conduct encouraging member franchisors to provide full and accurate pre-contractual disclosure. Franchisees should be cautious of franchisors who are unwilling to provide this.
The operations manual
A comprehensive operations manual is the practical backbone of any franchise system. In the beauty and wellness context, this will typically cover:
- Treatment protocols and hygiene standards
- Staff training and qualification requirements
- Customer service standards
- Pricing guidance (subject to competition law constraints)
- Brand and marketing guidelines
- Health and safety procedures
- Supplier and purchasing requirements
The manual should be updated regularly to reflect changes in regulation, best practice, and the franchisor's evolving systems. The franchise agreement should give the franchisor the right to amend the manual, subject to appropriate notice provisions.
Competition law
Franchise arrangements can raise competition law issues that are often overlooked, in particular:
- Resale price maintenance: Franchisors cannot legally require franchisees to charge fixed prices to customers. Recommended retail prices are permissible; minimum prices generally are not.
- Territory restrictions: Certain restrictions on where franchisees may sell, or from whom they may source goods, may require careful analysis under the UK's competition law framework.
- Information exchange: Regular reporting from franchisees to franchisors is a feature of franchise systems, but the nature of information shared must be managed carefully.
International expansion
International franchising offers significant opportunity for brands with ambitions beyond the UK, but also considerably greater complexity. Different jurisdictions impose varying mandatory legal requirements. Franchisors expanding internationally should consider:
- Whether a master franchise or area development model is more appropriate than direct franchising
- Local regulatory requirements, including pre-contractual disclosure obligations and local law requirements
- Trade mark protection in each target territory
- Currency and repatriation of royalties
- Cultural adaptation of the brand and service offering
Practical tips for prospective franchisees
If you are considering becoming a franchisee, the following practical steps can help protect your position:
- Take independent legal advice from a solicitor experienced in franchising before signing any agreement.
- Speak to existing franchisees: most reputable franchisors will facilitate introductions. Ask about their experience of the franchisor's support, the realism of financial projections, and any challenges they have encountered.
- Scrutinise the operations manual before committing, not just after signing.
- Understand the exit provisions: what happens if you want to sell the business, become ill, or the relationship breaks down?
- Check trade mark registrations: make sure the brand you are investing in is properly protected.
- Consider the competition: understand the market in your proposed territory and whether it can support a viable business.
How Mishcon de Reya can help
Our specialist Franchising team work with brand owners, investors, and operators across every stage of the franchise lifecycle. Whether you are a franchisor developing a franchise programme or a franchisee negotiating a new agreement, we provide expert, commercially focused advice tailored to your needs. Please contact our Franchising team to discuss how we can assist.
This article is intended for general information purposes only and does not constitute legal advice. You should seek specific legal advice before taking or refraining from taking any action.